Travertine, earthy tones, textures, "invisible" oak, wide planks and random-length boards: the 2027 flooring trends seen at Cersaie 2026, and how to adopt them in Brussels.
Honeycomb, solid, glazed or sliding door: installed prices in Belgium, 6% VAT, standard dimensions and Group Thys doors in a showroom in Brussels (1030).
Every autumn, the same question comes up in the showroom: "What tiles are best for my underfloor heating?". The good news: tiles are the most compatible flooring option for underfloor heating. The bad news: most problems—cracks, hollow-sounding tiles, and soaring bills—don't stem from the tiles themselves, but from what lies beneath them.
Why tiles are the best partner for underfloor heating
Underfloor heating operates at a low temperature: water circulates at around 30–35°C, compared to 55–70°C in a conventional radiator. For this "gentle" heat to reach the room, the flooring must allow it to pass through. Ceramic and porcelain tiles conduct heat very well, while thick parquet or rugs act like a blanket.
In practical terms, tiles allow the room to heat up faster, reduce the workload on the boiler or heat pump, and prevent the floor from warping during heating and cooling cycles. This is why they are used in the vast majority of heat pump renovations in Belgium.
Tiles: 3 criteria to consider, and nothing else
Solid-body or glazed porcelain tiles: both work. Porcelain tiles are dense, stable, and perfectly withstand temperature fluctuations.
Thickness: 8 to 10 mm is the ideal standard. Thicker tiles store more heat (greater thermal mass, slower heating up, but more consistent warmth). Thin large-format tiles (6 mm) also work, provided they are installed perfectly.
Size: large-format tiles (60×120, 120×120) are compatible, but require a perfectly level screed and double-sided adhesive application. With underfloor heating, a poorly bonded tile is a tile that will eventually crack.
What doesn't matter: colour, appearance (wood, concrete, or marble effect), or matte or glossy finish. All our porcelain tiles are compatible with underfloor heating. Discover our tiles.
Installation: where everything is decided
1. A dry screed that has already been "heated"
On a new screed, do not lay tiles until it is dry and a first heating protocol has been carried out (gradually increasing the temperature over several days, then lowering it again). This step "works" the screed before the tiles are bonded to it. Skipping it is the number one cause of tiles cracking during the first winter.
2. Flexible adhesive (S1 class)
You need C2 S1 adhesive (improved and deformable). It absorbs micro-movements caused by expansion. Standard rigid adhesive will hold... until the first major temperature fluctuations.
3. Expansion joints
On large areas or between two rooms heated by different circuits, expansion joints must be provided. They should align with the joints in the screed. This is not a matter of aesthetics; it is structural.
4. The heating turned off during installation
Turn off the underfloor heating about 48 hours before installation and leave it off while the adhesive and grout dry (allow 1 to 2 weeks, depending on the products). Then, restart it gradually: a few degrees a day, never all at once.
The 4 mistakes we see every winter
Laying tiles on a screed that hasn't been heated yet "because the project is behind schedule".
Turning the heating back on at full power the day after installation.
Forgetting the insulation layer beneath the pipes: the heat escapes into the slab rather than into the room.
Covering 80% of the floor with a large, thick rug: you are paying to heat the rug.
And what about renovations without breaking up the floor?
Ultra-thin electric underfloor heating systems (heating mats) are available and can be installed directly beneath the tiles, within the adhesive layer. This is the typical solution for a renovated bathroom in Brussels: just a few millimetres of extra thickness, and a warm floor the moment you get out of bed. For an entire house, a water-based system remains more economical to run.
Make your choice at Akdeniz Deco
Visit our showroom with the room plan and the type of heating (water or electric): we will guide you to the right tiles, adhesive, and grout. Free pickup on site (customer parking) or delivery by pallet within the 19 municipalities of Brussels.
FAQ – Tiles and underfloor heating
Are all tiles compatible with underfloor heating?
Almost all ceramic and porcelain tiles are. What determines success is the screed, flexible adhesive (C2 S1), and adherence to the heating protocols.
What tile thickness is best for underfloor heating?
8 to 10 mm is the most common thickness and offers the best balance between responsiveness and comfort. Thinner formats work with careful installation.
How long should I wait before turning the heating back on after installation?
Generally 1 to 2 weeks, depending on the adhesive and grout, followed by a gradual restart. Follow the technical data sheet of the adhesive used.
Are cold tiles a problem with underfloor heating?
No, it is quite the opposite: with underfloor heating, tiles become the most pleasant floor in the house because they distribute heat across the entire surface.
Every autumn, the same question comes up in the showroom: "What tiles are best for my underfloor heating?". The good news: tiles are the most compatible flooring option for underfloor heating. The bad news: most problems—cracks, hollow-sounding tiles, and skyrocketing bills—don't come from the tiles themselves, but from what's underneath them.
Why tiles are the best partner for underfloor heating
Underfloor heating works at a low temperature: water circulates at around 30–35°C, compared to 55–70°C in a conventional radiator. For this "gentle" heat to reach the room, the flooring must allow it to pass through. Ceramic and porcelain stoneware conduct heat very well, while thick parquet or a rug acts like a blanket.
In practical terms: with tiles, the room heats up faster, the boiler or heat pump works less, and the floor doesn't warp with hot/cold cycles. That's why they are found in the vast majority of heat pump renovations in Belgium.
Tiles: 3 criteria to consider, and nothing else
Solid-body or glazed porcelain stoneware: both work. Porcelain stoneware is dense, stable, and perfectly withstands temperature fluctuations.
Thickness: 8 to 10 mm is the ideal standard. Thicker tiles store more heat (more thermal mass, slower heating up, but more consistent warmth). Thin large-format tiles (6 mm) also work, provided they are installed flawlessly.
Size: large formats (60×120, 120×120) are compatible, but require a perfectly level screed and double-buttering. With underfloor heating, a poorly bonded tile is a tile that will eventually crack.
What doesn't matter: color, appearance (wood, concrete, or marble effect), or matte or glossy finish. All our porcelain stoneware tiles are compatible with underfloor heating. Discover our tiles.
Installation: where everything is decided
1. A dry screed that has already been "heated"
On a new screed, you must not lay tiles until it is dry and a first heating protocol has been carried out (gradually increasing the temperature over several days, then lowering it). This step "works" the screed before the tiles are bonded to it. Skipping it is the number one mistake leading to tiles cracking in the first winter.
2. Flexible adhesive (S1 class)
You need a C2 S1 type adhesive (improved and deformable). It absorbs the micro-movements caused by expansion. A standard rigid adhesive will hold... until the first major temperature fluctuations.
3. Expansion joints
On a large area or between two rooms heated by different circuits, expansion joints must be provided. They follow the joints in the screed. It's not about aesthetics; it's structural.
4. Heating turned off during installation
Turn off the underfloor heating about 48 hours before installation and leave it off while the adhesive and grout dry (allow 1 to 2 weeks depending on the products). Then, restart it gradually: a few degrees a day, never all at once.
The 4 mistakes we see every winter
Laying tiles on a screed that hasn't been heated yet "because the job is behind schedule".
Turning the heating back on full blast the day after installation.
Forgetting the insulation layer under the pipes: the heat goes into the slab instead of the room.
Covering 80% of the floor with a large, thick rug: you're paying to heat the rug.
And in renovations, without breaking the floor?
There are ultra-thin electric underfloor heating systems (heating mats) that can be installed directly under the tiles, within the adhesive layer. This is the typical solution for a renovated bathroom in Brussels: just a few millimeters of extra thickness, and a warm floor the moment you step out of bed. For an entire house, a water-based system remains more economical to run.
Make your choice at Akdeniz Deco
Visit our showroom with the room plan and the type of heating (water or electric): we will guide you toward the right tiles, adhesive, and grout. Free pickup on site (customer parking) or delivery by pallet in the 19 municipalities of Brussels.
FAQ – Tiles and underfloor heating
Are all tiles compatible with underfloor heating?
Almost all ceramic and porcelain stoneware tiles are. What determines success is the screed, flexible adhesive (C2 S1), and adherence to the heating-up rules.
What tile thickness is best for underfloor heating?
8 to 10 mm is the most common thickness and the best balance between responsiveness and comfort. Thinner formats work with careful installation.
How long should I wait before turning the heating back on after installation?
Generally 1 to 2 weeks depending on the adhesive and grout, followed by a gradual restart. Follow the technical data sheet of the adhesive used.
Are cold tiles a problem with underfloor heating?
No, it's the opposite: with underfloor heating, tiles become the most pleasant floor in the house because they radiate heat across the entire surface.
October, the heating is turned back on. A few weeks later, small gaps appear between the planks, the floor "clacks" in the hallway, a plank seems to move. Before thinking of a defect, you need to understand one thing: even laminate flooring reacts to the dry winter air. The real question is when it's normal, and when you need to act.
Why does laminate flooring move in winter?
Laminate flooring is composed of an ultra-resistant decorative layer placed on an HDF core, a high-density wood fiber panel. This wood fiber core exchanges moisture with the air, like wood, but to a much lesser extent.
In winter, the cold outdoor air contains little water; once heated to 21 °C in your living room, its relative humidity drops, often below 35%. The panels shrink slightly. In summer, it's the opposite. That's why laminate flooring is always installed floating, with an expansion joint all around the room: it must be able to "breathe".
The comfort zone of laminate flooring
Parameter
Ideal
Warning sign
Relative humidity of the air
45 to 65 %
consistently below 35 %
Room temperature
18 to 22 °C
rooms overheated to 24 °C and above
Surface temperature of underfloor heating
max. ~27 °C (according to the manufacturer)
underfloor heating pushed to the maximum
A hygrometer costs about ten euros. It's the best investment for your floor, and for your comfort.
Normal or not? The 30-second diagnosis
Very thin gaps in the middle of winter, which close in spring: normal movement related to dry air.
“Clacking” or creaking sound underfoot: most often an insufficiently level subfloor or an unsuitable underlay. Not dangerous, but the installation is at fault, not the plank.
Planks that lift or form a bump: the floor is blocked. Expansion joint missing, planks trapped under a skirting board, threshold, or heavy furniture fixed to the floor.
Edges of planks that swell: it's water, not the cold. Too wet mop, leak, snow melted in the entrance. Laminate flooring is sensitive to standing water.
6 steps to get through winter without damage
Humidify: a humidifier in living areas, or trays of water on radiators. Aim for 45 to 55 %.
Do not overheat: 20–21 °C is enough. Every extra degree dries out the air (and increases the bill).
Underfloor heating: gradual increase, without sudden changes, and respect the maximum surface temperature.
Clean with a well-wrung mop, never with too much water. Wipe up melted snow immediately.
A doormat at the entrance: gravel and de-icing salt are the main enemies of the surface.
Pads under furniture: we move tables and chairs more often during the holidays.
Renovating this winter? 3 installation tips
1. Acclimate the packages for 48 hours
Packages that arrive from a cold van must rest for at least 48 hours, flat and closed, in the heated room where they will be installed. Installing too early means risking joints that open a few days later.
2. Respect the expansion joint
About 8 to 10 mm all around the room and around pipes, then hidden by skirting boards. In our showroom, we also offer skirting boards and a skirting board cutting service for a clean finish.
3. Take care of the subfloor and underlay
A level floor (no more than 2 to 3 mm difference over 2 m) and a suitable underlay eliminate most of the clacking noises. On a concrete slab, a vapor barrier is essential.
8 mm or 12 mm: which one to choose?
Both thicknesses are available at Akdeniz Deco. The 8 mm is perfect for bedrooms and tight budgets. The 12 mm is more rigid, more comfortable underfoot and quieter: it's the right choice for a living room, an apartment, or a slightly uneven subfloor. With underfloor heating, check the compatibility indicated by the manufacturer and prefer a compatible underlay. See our laminate flooring.
For wet rooms and entrances, SPC vinyl or wood-effect tiles offer the same look without any sensitivity to water.
Need an opinion?
Visit the Akdeniz Deco showroom with a photo of your floor: we will tell you if it's normal movement or an installation problem, and which reference is right for your room. Free pickup on site with customer parking, or delivery on a pallet in Brussels.
FAQ – Laminate flooring in winter
Is it normal for my laminate flooring to separate in winter?
Very thin gaps can appear when the air is very dry due to heating. They generally close in spring. Significant gaps rather indicate an installation or acclimatization problem.
Why is my laminate flooring lifting?
Most often because it is blocked: missing or too small expansion joint, skirting boards or thresholds trapping the planks, heavy furniture fixed to the floor.
Can laminate flooring be installed in winter?
Yes, in a room heated between 18 and 22 °C, after leaving the packages to acclimate for at least 48 hours in the room.
8 mm or 12 mm laminate flooring?
The 8 mm is suitable for bedrooms and small budgets; the 12 mm is more rigid, quieter and more comfortable for living areas and apartments.
